Do Go Chasing (Frozen) Waterfalls
One sunny Sunday, allegedly four days into spring, my intrepid friend Angela and I decided to take on the wintry wilderness. Living so close to the Rocky Mountains, we get afflicted with what we call "Bad Albertan Guilt" - aka never feeling like you're quite taking advantage of the beautiful, wild playground right in your backyard. The easiest way to assuage this guilt is to go adventuring.
We decided to set out to Banff National Park to experience a seasonal site before spring arrived in earnest (which is like maybe late April around here...). For those of you that over the years have asked if Canada really gets that cold, we were on our way to chase a couple of frozen waterfalls. Yes, it gets cold enough in winter that not just running water like rivers can freeze over, but water plummeting 30 metres (just short of 100 feet) over the edge of a canyon solidifies creating a frozen shell over the remaining run off.
Being completely prepared for adventuring, we had our day packs with water, sandwiches, snacks and safety gear. Being completely unprepared for adulting, I had left my crampons and hiking polls right by the door so I wouldn't forget them... derp. Any hike in winter, especially well-trodden paths, require crampons or ice cleats (metal spikes that strap on to your boots/shoes) for safe footing. We had to settle for walking like penguins and walking off the inevitable slips.
Heading a little more than an hour and a half out of Calgary on the Trans-Canada, we arrived at the entrance to Banff National Park. From the park gates, it was about another half an hour to reach Johnston Canyon hiking area including a paved but bumpy road. Which I could. Not. Make. My stupid tiny bladder was BEYOND full and screaming at me, so after a few unsuccessful attempts to pull into closed campsite and picnic areas, I had to yell screw it and pull over on the side of the road to pop the squat behind a snow drift.
Except a small car pulled up behind us to seemingly take photos of the freakin' majestic mountains. I wondered who they were and what they were doing. Ang said "The seem to be taking pictures. I think they're European."
Ashley yelled "Get back in your damn car because I'm a-peein'!!"
Argh! They took forever to pull out and leave so I could jump over a snow bank for cover, which turned out to be a terrible plan because the snow was thigh deep and I kept breaking through ever step I took which made my task impossible. I finally found some very unstable footing and relief. Phew!
Hopping back in the car to Ang still dying of laughter, we drove the last 10 minutes to the parking lot. Johnston Canyon is an extremely popular day hike during all seasons and we learned it was foolish to think the small main parking lot had spaces available. We parked in the secondary lot just up the road to begin our hike. The main lot has big, clean washrooms, a bulletin board with important information and a trail map to get you started on the right foot. Or left foot. Both work.
The lower falls is just 1.1km up the trail from the lot. The trail is a clear pathway and much of it is raised walkways. It's a low elevation gain (30 m) and a leisurely walk. Unless of course, you're walking on a thick 30 cm base of sheer ice covered in fresh snow and melting slush. Then you need to be careful in your footing.
Making our way down the winding path, we were greeted by the canyon walls gently rising on either side as the frozen river burbled below the path.
[gallery ids="1913,1914,1923,1924,1911" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
Stepping on to the walkway, it was a short walk to the lower falls. But we decided to take the road slightly less travelled and headed to the upper falls another 1.5 km up the path with an elevation gain of about 120m first. And then we detoured again, taking an unmarked path leading down to the river's edge instead.
[gallery ids="1928,1925,1926" type="rectangular"]
Again following our feet, we took a side path winding down the hill. A precarious slide down an ice chute later and we reached the falls marking midway on the path.
[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giQfwO055oI?ecver=1&w=560&h=315]
[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucCFOXFJjPg&w=560&h=315]
[gallery ids="1916,1917,1918,1919,1920,1921,1922" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
Scrambling up the ice, we rejoined the main path and headed to the main observation deck at the base of the upper falls. Where we promptly climbed over the edge to get a better view. Probably not as good a view as the ice climbers scaling the canyon edge, but a beauteous view of the frozen falls and towering icicles nonetheless.
[gallery ids="1930,1931,1932,1935,1936,1937,1938,1939,1934" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
We followed the river's edge down a winding path to the top of the middle falls, admiring the ice crystal formation along the riverbank. Before the crest of the falls, a tree with frozen branches dipped into the water allowing ice to wind its way up the needles.
This serene site is where I misstepped and got a big ol' shoe full of snow and river water. Brr! Funny how the waterproofing on my shoes isn't effective against the water inside the shoe...
[gallery ids="1940,1942,1944,1941,1943" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
Persevering, we clambered up the side of the river bank back to the path and decided to take the short switchbacked path to the observation point on top of the falls. Going up was a bit of a challenge with the slick footing, but coming down was an exercise in cautious footing and penguin waddling. The view that awaited us was worth it though.
[gallery ids="1945,1946" type="rectangular"]
Tentatively we made our way down to the lower falls on treacherous ice slopes. I biffed hardcore once and was slowly and hilariously swept off the path and down the hillside, narrowly averting canning myself on small tree and successfully anchoring myself on another. Then I had to scootch on my bum like a baby across a patch of pure blue ice in order to crawl back up to the path. No harm done luckily. Man, those cleats and poles would have been handy. Or really crappy sneakers like all the teens wildly sliding down the ice and taking off running upon hitting the snow. *Sigh* I remember when I had no real understanding of my own mortality and my bones were all flexible and easily mended...
Slowly, after descending some switchbacks made of sheer ice, we arrived at the bridge to the lower falls. Here we encountered a small cave tunnel leading to a view of the falls.
[gallery ids="1947,1948,1949" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
All in, our roundtrip trek to the top of the upper falls and back with a few off-path detours took us just shy of three hours. I think on a sunny summer day, that would easily be no more than two hours, but you could also tack on the Ink Pots just another 3.2 km farther along the trail. The Ink Pots are a set of five pretty light blue-green coloured natural pools that bubble out of gravel on the ground, the effect of which is lost in winter when they are frozen over.
Back at the car, we snarfed down our sandwiches before embarking on the nearly two-hour drive back to Calgary without my bladder taking the wheel.
All in all, it was a beautiful winter day and the frozen falls were enchanting. However, be more prepared than we were if you're heading out for a hike on the ice. The folks with crampons or ice cleats certainly had an easier time of things. But we had a far more hilarious time guaranteed.
For more information on Johnston Canyon and the Ink Pots, visit the official Town of Banff website or Parks Canada website.
Being completely prepared for adventuring, we had our day packs with water, sandwiches, snacks and safety gear. Being completely unprepared for adulting, I had left my crampons and hiking polls right by the door so I wouldn't forget them... derp. Any hike in winter, especially well-trodden paths, require crampons or ice cleats (metal spikes that strap on to your boots/shoes) for safe footing. We had to settle for walking like penguins and walking off the inevitable slips.
Heading a little more than an hour and a half out of Calgary on the Trans-Canada, we arrived at the entrance to Banff National Park. From the park gates, it was about another half an hour to reach Johnston Canyon hiking area including a paved but bumpy road. Which I could. Not. Make. My stupid tiny bladder was BEYOND full and screaming at me, so after a few unsuccessful attempts to pull into closed campsite and picnic areas, I had to yell screw it and pull over on the side of the road to pop the squat behind a snow drift.
Except a small car pulled up behind us to seemingly take photos of the freakin' majestic mountains. I wondered who they were and what they were doing. Ang said "The seem to be taking pictures. I think they're European."
Ashley yelled "Get back in your damn car because I'm a-peein'!!"
Argh! They took forever to pull out and leave so I could jump over a snow bank for cover, which turned out to be a terrible plan because the snow was thigh deep and I kept breaking through ever step I took which made my task impossible. I finally found some very unstable footing and relief. Phew!
Hopping back in the car to Ang still dying of laughter, we drove the last 10 minutes to the parking lot. Johnston Canyon is an extremely popular day hike during all seasons and we learned it was foolish to think the small main parking lot had spaces available. We parked in the secondary lot just up the road to begin our hike. The main lot has big, clean washrooms, a bulletin board with important information and a trail map to get you started on the right foot. Or left foot. Both work.
The lower falls is just 1.1km up the trail from the lot. The trail is a clear pathway and much of it is raised walkways. It's a low elevation gain (30 m) and a leisurely walk. Unless of course, you're walking on a thick 30 cm base of sheer ice covered in fresh snow and melting slush. Then you need to be careful in your footing.
Making our way down the winding path, we were greeted by the canyon walls gently rising on either side as the frozen river burbled below the path.
[gallery ids="1913,1914,1923,1924,1911" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
Stepping on to the walkway, it was a short walk to the lower falls. But we decided to take the road slightly less travelled and headed to the upper falls another 1.5 km up the path with an elevation gain of about 120m first. And then we detoured again, taking an unmarked path leading down to the river's edge instead.
[gallery ids="1928,1925,1926" type="rectangular"]
Again following our feet, we took a side path winding down the hill. A precarious slide down an ice chute later and we reached the falls marking midway on the path.
[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giQfwO055oI?ecver=1&w=560&h=315]
[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucCFOXFJjPg&w=560&h=315]
[gallery ids="1916,1917,1918,1919,1920,1921,1922" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
Scrambling up the ice, we rejoined the main path and headed to the main observation deck at the base of the upper falls. Where we promptly climbed over the edge to get a better view. Probably not as good a view as the ice climbers scaling the canyon edge, but a beauteous view of the frozen falls and towering icicles nonetheless.
[gallery ids="1930,1931,1932,1935,1936,1937,1938,1939,1934" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
We followed the river's edge down a winding path to the top of the middle falls, admiring the ice crystal formation along the riverbank. Before the crest of the falls, a tree with frozen branches dipped into the water allowing ice to wind its way up the needles.
This serene site is where I misstepped and got a big ol' shoe full of snow and river water. Brr! Funny how the waterproofing on my shoes isn't effective against the water inside the shoe...
[gallery ids="1940,1942,1944,1941,1943" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
Persevering, we clambered up the side of the river bank back to the path and decided to take the short switchbacked path to the observation point on top of the falls. Going up was a bit of a challenge with the slick footing, but coming down was an exercise in cautious footing and penguin waddling. The view that awaited us was worth it though.
[gallery ids="1945,1946" type="rectangular"]
Tentatively we made our way down to the lower falls on treacherous ice slopes. I biffed hardcore once and was slowly and hilariously swept off the path and down the hillside, narrowly averting canning myself on small tree and successfully anchoring myself on another. Then I had to scootch on my bum like a baby across a patch of pure blue ice in order to crawl back up to the path. No harm done luckily. Man, those cleats and poles would have been handy. Or really crappy sneakers like all the teens wildly sliding down the ice and taking off running upon hitting the snow. *Sigh* I remember when I had no real understanding of my own mortality and my bones were all flexible and easily mended...
Slowly, after descending some switchbacks made of sheer ice, we arrived at the bridge to the lower falls. Here we encountered a small cave tunnel leading to a view of the falls.
[gallery ids="1947,1948,1949" type="rectangular" orderby="rand"]
All in, our roundtrip trek to the top of the upper falls and back with a few off-path detours took us just shy of three hours. I think on a sunny summer day, that would easily be no more than two hours, but you could also tack on the Ink Pots just another 3.2 km farther along the trail. The Ink Pots are a set of five pretty light blue-green coloured natural pools that bubble out of gravel on the ground, the effect of which is lost in winter when they are frozen over.
Back at the car, we snarfed down our sandwiches before embarking on the nearly two-hour drive back to Calgary without my bladder taking the wheel.
All in all, it was a beautiful winter day and the frozen falls were enchanting. However, be more prepared than we were if you're heading out for a hike on the ice. The folks with crampons or ice cleats certainly had an easier time of things. But we had a far more hilarious time guaranteed.
For more information on Johnston Canyon and the Ink Pots, visit the official Town of Banff website or Parks Canada website.
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