End of the Inca Trail - Machu Picchu

Having reached the Sun Gate after a trying morning of hiking in the dark, we reached the magnificent sight of  clouds parting to reveal Machu Picchu nestled in the mountain peaks. 

After photos, we scaled down several sets of stairs to the ticket office where we had snacks and the chance to use a washroom - with flushing toilets and soap and water. Erin and I made sure to get our commemorative passport stamps from the small, unassuming stand alongside the entrance. It was a little bit of an odd process to hike through the site, leave through the exit gates, come back up to the entrance gates, get a ticket and go back in just above where we exited. I assume there's a logic to it... as a certain friend of mine would say "stop asking so many questions!"

Upon re-entering the grounds, we enjoyed a brief history lesson by our guide. The most important takeaways in my opinion were:

• The name of the city is pronounced "mat-chew peat-chew" with a "t" or "k" sound, which translates to old or old person and mountain, so old mountain. If you pronounce it "mat-chew pea-chew", you are likely saying old man penis. Ha ha ha! 
• There will soon be additional restrictions on tourism to the site as archaeologists have noted that the city is sinking or collapsing under the weight of so many visitors. Who knows what the future holds for tourism at the site, but if you're interested in being able to walk the grounds, our guide said go soon. 

Of course, there is so much more to the site than my inattentive takeaways. As a breif summary, it is believed the city was built for the Inca (king) Pachacuti around 1450 and abandoned upon the encroachment of the Spanish Conquistadors around 1550. The Spanish allegedly did not know the location of the city, but Machu Picchu is not actually the lost city of the Incas (that's Vilcabamba).

While the locals continued living near the abandoned city and retained knowledge of its location and existence, it came to the world's attention when a local farmer showed historian and explorer Hiram Bingham. It is now a UNESCO world heritage site with a little more than 30 per cent of the site restored and uncovered. There are restored sites and sites reconstructed for the benefit of tourists. 

One of he first things we saw when setting upon the ruins was this most terrifying and horrific creature. It was about a foot long and three inches wide. Or in my mind, a nightmare rearing six feet tall with the hulk of a raging bull. Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee KILL IT WITH FIRE!!!!

Bravely running away while squealing and nearly crying, we headed up the stairs - which was agony without the hiking poles and hilarious to watch - and walked up to the temple area. First stop was the Royal Tomb, which contains more than 100 mummified remains most of which were female. There's and Andean Cross carved from one wall which was a chance to learn about the three levels of existence - the first level is snake representing death and the underworld, the second level is jaguar representing human life, and the third and highest step is condor representing the gods. 

Up some more stairs, we reached the temple area. The whole site is so incredible when you remember that the stones are set without cement or mortar. The temples display the finest stone work. 

Just imagine a thatched roof.

Despite the magnificent stone work, the whole of Machu Picchu is said to be sinking under the weight and volume of tourists over the years. More likely is the fact that the site sits on two fault lines and is prone to earthquakes. But because of the way the stones are set in the buildings without any mortar, they are flexible enough not to be destroyed by earthquakes. They move as needed and settle back in place... for the most part. 

Next up was the Sacred Plaza with Intiwatana - the hitching post of the sun. The temple was designed to align with the summer solstice. On June 21, the sun allegedly shines perfectly through the windows and casts light on a sacred rock in the temple.

A look back on the Sacred Plaza and the rock quarry in the background. 

At the top of the tallest remaining structure in the Sacred Plaza is Intihuatana - a probable sundial and astronomic calendar. We were told the Inca believed Intihuatana held the sun to its path in the sky. 

Descending a small, narrow set of stairs we approached the Central Plaza, aka llama field!

ERMERGHERD LLAMA FACES!!

ERMERGHERD LLAMA BELLY!!

Crossing the field of llamas, we apparently came to where the sacred rock is located, but went right by it as I was chasing this little guy. I'm pretty sure he's on a normal rock. 

This may have been right by the sacred rock?

Moving on we headed to the school and royal residences area (I think, it was hard to get a straight answer on what the complex was for). When we walked through narrower hallways, I wondered why there were sometimes S or zigzag patterns to the walls or sometimes half walls built as barricades. My extensive Googling of llamas has unintentionally answered my question and revealed that the Quechua built hallways leading to the storage houses in his manner because llamas can't make tight enough turns to get through - they're llama gates to keep them out of the food. 

It didn't keep us out though.

One special attraction in the residence area had two flat pools. Eavesdropping on a nearby guide, I gathered that the pools align with two windows behind them and perfectly reflect the night sky. Possibly thought to be for star gazing or mapping. 

Next stop was the Temple of the Condor. It is a natural rock formation that was carved over the years to resemble a condor's wings in flight. Sacrifices were possibly held on the rock before the body of the condor which is the bird's head. It seems most of the tombs and prison are concealed underground in elaborate labyrinths, but that is not open for public viewing.

Again supporting the sophistication of the ancient city, there is a series of fountains connected by aqueducts from a spring more than a kilometre away to the agriculture area, through the royal residences areas, and ending in the Temple of the Condor. Thanks to the ancient and accurate hydraulic engineering, the fountains are still functioning today.

Having hit everything on the list and my limit for hiking up and down stairs, we took one long look back at Machu Picchu. And one extra long look back at llamas. 

We caught the shuttle bus down the daring cliff to the town of Agua Calientes to regroup. 

Meeting for a meal at a restaurant in town, we bid Jennifer (one of our trail guides) goodbye and hopped on the train back to Ollantaytambo. From there, it was a few hours to Cusco by coach. We are slated to arrive back in town in the late evening. And then get up at 2 am to start our day excursion hiking Rainbow Mountain... oh my!

As always, it was great making fantastic new friends from around the world, but also sad to say goodbye (for now)!