Ait Ben Haddou - The People of the Son of Haddou meet the People of the Bus
Time has lost all meaning as I stare soullessly at the never ending wadi from the condensation-coated window of my imprisoning bus seat. We again stopped at a glamorous road-side attraction: a lone snake charmer sitting in the dirt.
After an also never-ending lunch, we had the chance to stop at a spice shop/pharmacy where we were introduced to local beauty products, health remedies and spice mixes. It was kind of a hoot! People got face massages, the ladies (and a couple intrepid gentlemen) had our eyes rimmed with khol, I had an allergic sneezing fit, we sniffed an incredibly potent mix of black cumin and crystalized peppermint that blasted mint through your whole brain, and bought the legendary Ras El Hanout spice mix.
Following our usual pattern, we arrived at Ait Ben Haddou in the late afternoon, settled in to the hotel and met for a short walking tour. The Ksar of Ait Ben Haddou has two claims to fame. Firstly, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site preserving the earthen architecture of 17th century Morocco and a remarkably intact ksar (collection of buildings like houses, stores, mosques, gates, towers, etc.). Secondly, it is a popular filming location and has been featured in shows like Game of Thrones and movies such as Gladiator, Lawrence of Arabia and The Mummy (which still holds up! Okay, it never held up, but is still delightful!).
Quickly winding up through the ksar, we watched a snippet of sunset from the fortifications at the top of the hill. I proceeded to chase around uncooperative birds.
The name Ait Ben Haddou basically breaks down to mean the tribe or people (ait) of the sons (ben) of the leader with the family name Haddou, who would have constructed the ksar. Our local guide belonged to one of the few, maybe dozen, families that still live in the ksar in earthen homes. Most families have relocated to the small city across the river.
Our guide was kind enough to let us check out his family home. On the main floor were an open courtyard, kitchen and area for keeping goats and chickens. I chased around a bunch of kids, but they didn't want to be my friend. Then I got locked in the pen, where I admittedly belong. I do eat like an animal...
On the second floor were the bedrooms and lounge. On my way out of their home, our guide's sister said I had a nice face for marriage. I was confused as to what that meant, but said thank you and that I thought she was beautiful. She asked if I had a husband. I said no. She asked if I wanted to be married soon and I said "No thank you." Which was apparently hilarious. She and her brother had a heated and rapid conversation in Arabic or Berber. Later, our guide explained I had helped him win a point in an ongoing argument that it not the dream of all women to get a husband and have babies. Apparently, his sister and mom will not believe it and will probably immediately get together to discuss whether I was coerced into saying that.
Crossing the river and moving on, we were coerced into another rug shop to re-learn about Berber rugs. This time, we were given a brief tutorial on what some of the symbols woven into the rugs mean. Traditionally, the women weave the rugs and it was one of their only forms of self-expression. They'd write and pass down their stories into the patterns in the fabric.
We pulled a disappearing act, sneaking out of the rug shop as we had to get to class. Cooking class! We'll get a basic rundown on how to cook a chicken, lemon and olive tagine dish. And then eat it - the best part of any cooking class. Recipe coming next!
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