Cu Chi Tunnels and War Remnants Museum

Up bright and early we were off for a guided tour of Cu Chi tunnels. Our local guide was fantastic. He actually fought for the south in the war, first as a translator and foot soldier with U.S. troops, eventually rising to captain with 100 soldiers in his command. He was 19 when he joined the south army and fought for the entire duration of the war. 

Despite his active role in the conflict, Mr. Hai was balanced and fair. He talked about the good, bad and ugly on each side while reminding us to consider everything in context for the people on each side. 

Ultimately, Mr. Hai among many others was happy the war and fighting was over even though the south and America lost. 

After the South Vietnamese government admitted defeat, Mr. Hai laid down his weapon to return home and advised his men to do the same. He had about a month with his family in Saigon before he was identified as a captain in the war and was sent to a reeducation centre for 3 years to learn about and accept communist doctrine. 

While he was not permitted an educated or government job, he worked as a mechanic then a shop owner before becoming a tour guide. He now has a wife, three children and two grandchildren. Mr. Hai is happy and grateful to have survived and kept stating "I don't know why I lived when so many did not."

My war history is pretty terrible and this war seemed particularly complicated, but here are the key points as I understand them:

• France occupied Vietnam for many years but lost control during WWII
• Ho Chi Minh declared Vietnam an independent nation, the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, but France sought to regain control of the country
• The US supported France in its efforts out of opposition to Communism (stemming from the Cold War)
• France was defeated and relinquished occupancy of Vietnam in 1954
• The Geneva accords divided the country into North Vietnam (under Ho and his Communist forces) and South Vietnam (under a French-backed emperor). The country was to be reunited after democratic elections in 1956. 
• The US held Domino Theory projected the fall of one Asian country to communism would lead to the fall of many and creation of a significant communist force
• So the US began to offer support to the anti-Communist politician Ngo Dinh Diem who took control of the south government in 1955 and cancelled the upcoming 1956 elections (they believed Ho Chi Minh would win due to his popularity and iconic status)
• The north armies were the NVA (North Vietnamese Army) and the Vietcong (mostly rural guerrilla fighters)
• The Vietcong were incredibly difficult to identify as they remained in plain clothes, in rural settings, and were men, women and teens of both sexes
• The south armies were the ARVN (Army of the Republic of Vietnam), the US troops, and select Asian allies
• After North Vietnamese forces allegedly attacked a US navy ship in the Gulf of Tonkin in 1965, President Johnson began sending US troops into active duty
• Hundreds of thousands die, atrocities are committed on both sides, public support for the war plummets, Agent Orange is used and leaves a devastating legacy
• The US expands the war to begin bombing neighbouring countries allowing NVA troops passage - this includes Cambodia and Laos 
• Losing supports and losing the war, the US (Henry Kissinger) negotiates with North Vietnam for the release of prisoners of war and agrees to withdraw troops in 1972
• The last US troops leave Vietnam in 1973, but the US continues to fund the war and provide supplies with a plan to taper off involvement 
• Without the continued full support of the US, the South armies were overpowered 
• The NVA captured Saigon (the south capital) on April 30, 1975
• The country is reunited under communist rule, becoming the Socialist Republic of Vietnam 

NVA uniform

Vietcong uniform

Now on to the tour. Cu Chi was a strategically significant location for the Vietcong during the war. There were more than 250 kilometres of tunnels running through the country. The tunnels were used as concealment, sniper spots, supply routes, communication lanes, weapons caches, hospitals, and dining halls. When combat started nearby, everyone would retreat to the tunnels. Some tunnels were less than a metre tall and a half metre wide. 

Now it's a collection of displays and demonstrations reflecting tactics, weapons, and life during the war. 

We began the walkabout with a short Vietcong propaganda film. Next we walked by a few craters from B-52 bombs. When the Americans discovered the tunnels they tried a few methods for clearly the enemies out including grenades, dogs, and sending troops. But for every 5 men that entered the tunnels, only 2 would emerge alive. It was eventually decided that bombing the tunnels was the most effective method and on he ground soldiers would call in an air strike after persuading a Vietcong fighter to give up the location of the tunnel. 

The tunnels were incredibly tiny and well camouflaged. 

After the bomb craters we saw a few terrifying traps. Firstly, a bamboo spike trap where the spikes were tipped with feces. The point wast necessarily to kill, but to cause enough injury and threat of infection that the fighting unit lost valuable time and members in rescue efforts and were vulnerable to ambush. 

There were nearly a dozen pressure spike traps displayed. Mostly they were constructed of recovered bomb material. 

This is a door trap. As implied, it is triggered by opening a door. When the south and American soldiers became aware of the traps, they began opening doors with their guns held horizontally in front of them. So the Vietcong added a swinging lower component to catch the lower extremities when the pendulum swung. 

There was an opportunity to visit an onsite firing range to shoot guns commonly used during the war. It added an ominous atmosphere to the site. Ang and a few others took to the range. 

It was time to experience the tunnels. The original tunnels could less than 1 metre tall by half metre wide, but there is one demo tunnel that is 100 metres long and has been enlarged for tourists. It was about 1.5 metres tall and 1 metre wide at the beginning. 

That sexy glossy sheen is a ridiculous layer of sweat.

It was very difficult to duck walk through and was extremely hot and humid. I made it 80 metres through as the tunnels continued to descend and shrink as you passed exit points every 20 metres. I was advised I likely wouldn't fit in he last section of tunnel. And I looked like I just stepped out of the shower I was so covered in sweat and moisture. 

After the tunnel, we were offered a snack of cassava and ground peanuts - sometimes the only food available to soldiers. I thought it was actually very tasty and filling. 

Remnants of an American tank

Oh and our tour guide found a HUGE EFFING CENTIPEDE on the side of the path. Everyone thought I'd want to see it because of my interest in wildlife. THEY. WERE. WRONG. I hate, HATE, SUPER HATE millipedes and centipedes. So of course our guide went to chase me with it until I said in my scary voice that I would "bleeping" end him and asked if he knew what curb stomped means. He left me alone. 

It was back on the bus and a quick shower at the hotel before we planned to visit the War Remnants Museum. This is when Ang realized she lost her phone. Noooooooo! Fortunately, it was on the bus. Fortunately, the bus driver found it. Fortunately, he was a very nice man and brought it back to the hotel. Phew!

Back on track, a bunch of us went across the road to check out a little festival we noticed. They had all sorts of tasty street food and drinks. I didn't actually find out what it was all about though. On to the museum.

Okay, the museum was very well done and yes it covers a very serious topic, but it should be named the Horrible Museum of Soul Crushing Atrocities, Crippling  Depression and Uncontrollable Tears. It was difficult. 

We began in a section called Historical Truths that provided a timeline, some facts, and an interesting perspective on the beginning of the Vietnam War - or the War of American Aggression as I believe it was called by the North Vietnamese side.   

Next was an incredible exhibit entitled Requiem. It was a collection of war documentary photos taken by 134 journalists from 11 nationalities killed during the Indochina War (which includes the Vietnam War). It was followed by a collection of photos of the Vietnam War by two Japanese photographers. 

Lastly, there was a section called Aggressive War Crimes documenting crimes committed by the Americans and south allies. It included significant sections showing the catastrophic effects of Agent Orange. 

Operation Ranch Hand (defoliation by Agent Orange) was conducted from 1961-71. The purpose for the mission was to deforest the dense jungle to make it easier for American troops to flush out the enemy and fight. Agent Orange contained highly concentrated dioxin - now a know carcinogen and genotoxin meaning the genetic defects are passed through generations. 

It is estimated that 4 million people were exposed to Agent Orange. 

On a lighter note, we headed to the backpacker district for dinner where we got to try snails at last! 

Then beer on the street before stumbling back.