Hanoi to Ha Long

Reporting for duty in the lobby bright and early, a sleepy Ashley and possibly still drunk Ang were ready for adventure. I was sleepy because I woke up unnecessarily worried about Ang around midnight and then to feed the cats at 5:30 am. I was very confused about where I had left the cat food in the hotel room for the cats that were back in Calgary.

Anyways, we met our local guide for the Ha Long trip, Son, on the bus and began the four hour drive to Ha Long. Son told us about Hanoi and the growth of the city - some challenges he pointed out were traffic (5.5 million motorcycles for 8 million people) and real estate. We also heard a little about the evolution of communism and capitalism and tourism for Vietnam.

Fast facts:

- The Socialist Republic of Vietnam is one of 5 communist countries in the world

- they are nearing a population of 90 million

- 65% of the population is younger than 35 years old

- The predominant religion is Buddhism with Christian and Cao Dai the next leading religions 

- Vietnam has been occupied by the Chinese, Mongols, and French

- Foreign business are now able to have 100% ownership, where formerly it was banned or 50-50 with the government. 

Along the way to Ha Long, Son also told us about some family traditions, the wage gap or disparity between farmers and city dwellers, and gender-based societal expectations. As boys are expected to care for their parents while girls become part of their in law's family, having sons is still preferred to daughters. Apparently, parents are limited two children but the rule is rarely followed in the pursuit of having a son and in rural life where big families are advantageous. 

Speaking of farming, we were lucky enough to see some rice being harvested. The rice was yellow and being hand scythed. Once the rice is cut it is laid out to dry. The rice is then hit against the ground or our through a machine to separate the rice and the straw. The straw is saved for feeding cattle or making thatched roofs. Apparently Vietnam has now surpassed Thailand as the top global rice producer. 

A quick bathroom break at an art and apparel factory ended poorly for one traveller. The shop itself was very interesting as it employs local disabled people to create the beautiful art, sculptures and clothing. However, while exploring the building adjacent to the shop, one of the tour members was confronted and bitten by a stray dog. So it was off to the Ha Long hospital for a critical detour before our boat adventure. Luckily he didn't require stitches and the wound was properly disinfected. I'd be demanding a rabies shot, but the doctor said just wait 24 hours to see if he was fine. And rabies takes 4-7 days to show. I'm pretty sure you're already on your way to the big sleep by then, but that was that. 

On to Ha Long bay. Son explained Ha Long bay means descending dragon bay. To create a protect the budding country, dragons spat out dragon pearls that caused the great limestone pillars to jut from the sea. The mountains made navigation very difficult for foreign ships and formed a protective barrier for Vietnam. 

There are nearly 2000 limestone mountains/islands in the bay and due to the minerals from the limestone, the water is bright blue or turquoise in the light. 

Arriving at the harbour we jumped on our smaller ferry boat that took us out to the junk boat waiting is in the bay. 

Okay, this boat is SO NICE! There are a couple decks, a little bar, private rooms and oh my god the food. We had a "quick lunch" when we got on board which included like 6 courses of prawns, squid, chicken curry, noodles, fish balls, salad, watermelon... It just kept coming so we just kept eating. 

That afternoon we went to see Surprising Cave on one of the mountains. It was discovered by a French sailor at the beginning of the 20th century. Their ship took refuge from strong winds and rain in the mountain bay. The sailor noticed that a large number of monkeys were swimming to the mountain and disappearing past the treetops. Upon going to investigate, he discovered the cave. 

Hang Sung Sut (Surprising Cave) has three large chambers. The sheer size, breadth and depth of the cave are the surprise. 

A couple hundred steps up and down and we were greeted with a blast of heat and humidity. I saw all the classic cave formations. 

And some less classic. 

Heart

Tortoise with offerings

Dragon

Vietnamese dong

The views of the bay were beautiful from the cave exit. 

Unless a monstrous hand from above tries to snatch you. 

Back down a couple hundred steps and it was on the small transport boat. 

We zipped back to the big boat for an optional kayaking excursion to hidden lagoon. We Canadian girls showed them how it was done in our tandem kayak and I didn't even flip the kayak or fall out this time!

We crossed a bay and circled round a mountain where we saw the entrance to the lagoon through a low cave. Passing through we immediately met with a dozen or more Mulatto Macaques climbing the cliff side above us. Everyone oohed and awed but I hate monkeys and thought we should cruise around the perimeter of the lagoon. 

Pulling around a corner we found a really peaceful spot to listen to the birdsong, watch fish jump, and see cool bugs on the water. What we didn't hear was the guide calling us as it was getting dark and time to go. Power paddling back to the junk boat, it was time for a quick shower and another huge feast. 

While in the shower, I heard knocking on our boat window and a lady shouting. Turns out there are little merchandise boats that sell to the junk boat tourists right through the porthole. 

I was ready for a little onboard karaoke party but the damn boat was dark, warm, humid, and rocking gently. I think i was having flashbacks of life in utero and ended up falling asleep at like 9.