Trekking the Inca Trail Day 2 - Dead Woman's Pass (Warmiwañusca)

Today is the most intense day on our trek and the most intensely named - Dead Woman's Pass. I spent most of the night hoping that I would not be the dead woman as we ascend for the first half of the day gaining 1,200 metres elevation of mostly large stone steps, and reaching around 4,200 m (13,770 ft) altitude - I couldn't find a consensus on the actual altitude - and descending down to 3,590 m (11,718ft) in a total of 12 kilometres.

The day started out with a mild drizzle of rain (or possibly just the fact that we were walking through clouds), but soon turned into a fairly steady stream. Passing through the checkpoint, we were a go for a tough day of trekking in breathtaking surroundings.

Staying hydrated and looking cool.

Sadly, I didn't take many photos throughout the day for fear of destroying my camera which was already waterlogged from the Amazon. I also asked my sister to carry the camera in her waterproof bag as my bag was prone to soaking through quickly. But she's also way faster than me and was close behind the rest of our group who were legitimately racing to the top.

Photo by Chris O'Brien - photographer extraordinaire!

Which left me trekking mostly by my onesie, but in sight of friends.



And looking super cool with my garbage bag style poncho rigged up to protect my bag. That's hiking haute couture.



Despite the steady rain and physical toll, I had a great day on the hike! While ascending a set of stairs, I stopped to take a rest and was accosted by a beautiful green and red hummingbird. It circled around my face and zipped in toward my eye before flitting off. Which was actually kind of terrifying when I thought it was trying to skewer my eyeball. I have no idea why it was interested in my face. I most certainly was not smelling like a flower at that point...

I made it through the mist and clouds to the first resting point, where I met up with the rest of the group and we had a chance to use real, well-maintained toilets. We were also able to purchase drinks from local village women. Gatorade, whisky and Pringles available at 3,700 metres...

Photo by Chris O'Brien

After the short rest and refuel, it was up, up and away again. And it was time for another animal experience! While keeping my own pace on the never-ending stone stairs, I also kept an eye on the misty valley on my right.

As the day progressed and the sun cleared the horizon, the mist started to clear to reveal... Llamas! LLAMAS IN THE MIST!

Even though they were quite far away, I frantically started waving my arms at my nearest group member in my enthusiasm and am fully aware I looked like an over-excited Muppet. This gesture of crazy, frantic waving over your head with both arms came to be our universal signal for llamas.

That llama sighting was just the motivation I needed to push forward and make the final ascent. With the rain sporadic and the skies clearing, we were treated to some truly magnificent sights.

With Warmiwañusca Pass in sight, but also a steep ascent on switch backing stairs to go, it was time to amp up the motivation my popping in my earphones and cranking up Ashley's GET PSYCHED playlist! A sweet set of jams from the 80s through 00s that is in no way made of terrible, cheesy, sing-out-loud rock songs. Which is to say it is entirely made of terrible, cheesy, sing-out-loud rock songs. Click here to check out the full playlist.

I got this!

No I don't. Stupid stairs...

No, I do. I've got this!
DON'T STOP BE-LIEEEEEEEEEEEEEEVING! HOLD ON TO THAT FEE-EEE-EEELING!

Legs shaking like a baby alpaca taking its first wobbly steps, I was greeted by the group at the top of the pass with cheers and ample high fives. I have to say, I seriously wondered if the Inca Trail was within my capabilities, especially hiking so intensely at high altitude, so having made it to the highest point on the toughest day, I was (and am) immensely proud of myself. What's more is thanks to the encouragement from Elias and Jennifer (our guides), motivation from the Chasquis along the way whether with our company or others, and the cheers and smiling faces of the group, I was able to keep a positive attitude and truly enjoy the journey. (Also thanks to Journey and their sweet tunes.)

Super glad I decided to wear my garbage bag for this important moment.

With a little bit of rest for photos, it was all downhill from here. Literally. Now that you made it up the mountain, time to head down stone stairs descending 610 metres in altitude to the next camp site. The rain picked up as we descended and we had to be careful and mindful with every step, but I was glad for the cooler temperatures. It gets really hot in an unbreathable garbage bag!

The weather again cooperated beautifully. The rain and mist cleared as I arrived at the Paqaymayo camp.

We watched the sun set behind the mountains from our camp at 3,590 metres, waiting for another stupifyingly gourmet meal and playing a friendly(?) game of Poophead - the card game with ever-changing, inexplicable rules that always seem to let our guide win...