Trekking the Inca Trail Day 4 - Sun Gate

Today's the big day! The end destination of our trekking adventure was a mere six or so hours of steep descention in the dark and steep incline in the dawn's early light away. We were headed for Machu Picchu.

Rising before dawn - actually at 2:15 am - we bid our helpful and amazing Chasquis farewell and in a flurry of activity we chugged our coffee, filled our water packs, grabbed our pack lunch and were off.

 

The first hours were steep declines on ancient stone stairs which we cautiously navigated by headlamp. Which is probably why my sonofabitch headlamp decided it was time to kick the bucket. You may be thinking "no big deal, just change the battery" right? Wrong! I brought extra batteries for just such an occasion, but my sonofabitch headlamp batteries are screwed in to the body of the light and accessible only by removing a tiny screw. You may be thinking "no big deal, just use a screwdriver" right? Wrong! I brought a set of eyeglass repair screwdrivers for just such an occasion, but my sonofabitch headlamp screw is non-standard size - too small for even eyeglass repair screwdrivers. So... sonofabitch!

I tried trekking by the light of my iPod awkwardly propped in the centre of my chest between the girls held by my backpack strap, which worked adequately for a time. However, after several days without a charge, the little device on flashlight mode did not last long and I found myself in the dark once again. Ever have one of those days where you're barely holding it together? Well, I thought I had done a pretty good job of keeping positive and keeping up over or priovious days tackling the Inca Trail. Today was not my day. Frustrated with the slow progress, mad at myself for not refreshing the headlamp batteries (or buying a less stupid design), physically exhausted and hungry, I was nearing my limit when one of our guides, Elias, gave me his headlamp to get me through the remaining hours of trekking in the dark. (Which I then though I lost when it flew off my head, and almost cried then and there, but it turned out it was on a retractable elastic and stuck in my ponytail... phew!) THANK YOU ELIAS! You saved me from a likely fall and an emotional breakdown.

 

As dawn broke, we were treated to spectacular views of the valley. Despite wobbly llama legs, we had to press forward at a solid pace if we wanted to make it to the Sun Gate in hopes of seeing the clouds clear over Macchu Pichu. 

Nearing the end of the morning's trek there was one last treat in store. At the last little incline, around the last corner, in the last few kilometres we encountered... The Gringo Killer! An incredibly steep set of stairs at a nearly vertical incline. 

 

Well, there may or may not have been a stream of cursing before I declared I would "make these stairs my bitch!" (Also before I noticed a French family and their two small girls sitting at the top of the stairs. Oops...)

Bleeping bleep bleepity bleep stairs!!!

 

GAH! BAH! *panting* Made it over the last obstacle! Just a short jaunt down the bend we arrived at the Sun Gate and were treated to the site's namesake views. Luckily, we had arrived as the sun was breaking over the mountain tops and the mist was rolling over Macchu Pichu below.

 

 

  

While it had already been a full day, our day was just beginning. We took in the spectacular views before collecting our group and heading down the site.

 

 

Down the path we traversed, stopping for photos and selfies along the way. Descending into the main site, we passed a few folks making the trek up to the sun gate and hoards of tour groups.

Now it has been some days since we have showered, some sweaty sporty days, which we were aware of. But that didn't stop an older British lady from remarking on our appearance and odour as we went by. I wonder if the smell will keep the crowds away... advantage stinky people!

Put your pits up to celebrate!

We did zip by what I believe to be a temple and a sacrifice rock about halfway down, but we were in a rush to get a group photo and out tickets before the quota was sold, so only time for one sacrifice. 

We made it to the famous sweet spot for photos with a relatively short line in front of us. I think the wafting collective stink cloud may have helped. Say (blue?) cheese!

There is just too much to cover on all the sites within Machu Picchu, so I'm splitting this post into two. More on our exploration and trip back to Cusco in the next entry!